Daniela Marchesi's Vagabonding

The underwater adventure continues - from PADI Open Water to Divemaster

2011-10-02T12:32:00.000-07:00

It is now nearly four years since I completed my PADI Open Water with the lovely guys at Sandton Scuba in Sodwana Bay, South Africa. And there is no doubt about it, I have been hooked ever since.

From completing my Advanced Open Water course in the cold waters of Stoney Cove - a quarry in Leicestershire and the UK's largest inland diving centre, to my Rescue Diver course in Thailand, I have continued to improve my diving skills over the years. I really am never happier than when underwater.

So, now the adventure continues and I will be completing my PADI Divemaster with the London-based dive club, Diving Leisure London. This is a very challenging course, and I can't wait to get started. Over the coming months, I will be updating here on my progress. Wish me luck!

Sport Diver UK: Sipadan - the dive world's Holy Grail

2011-08-21T12:27:00.000-07:00

When it comes to diving, Sipadan has always been hailed as the Holy Grail for keen scuba divers and ocean lovers worldwide. So earlier this year, I travelled to Borneo's Sabah to check out the underwater paradise for myself. With its abundance of marine life, I can now definitely see why it is ranked among one of the world's best dive spots. Here is an extract from my article on Sport Diver UK:

"Three spurts of cold water at irregular intervals. That was it. A single, defiant offering from a shower that oozed remoteness and little else. I revelled in it, really. After flying all the way to Borneo, taking an internal flight, a one-hour car drive with a cavalier taxi driver and a 40km white knuckle boat ride across the Celebes Sea through a storm, somehow it wouldn’t have seemed right to arrive at a luxurious retreat. I was on Mabul Island, ready to experience a different kind of creature comforts - the underwater kind. Finally I was going to dive Sipadan, the Holy Grail for scuba divers.". Click here to read the full article.

Image provided by Jason Isley, Managing Director of Borneo based underwater production/publication company Scubazoo

URGENT APPEAL - Somalia's famine crisis

2011-07-21T10:49:00.000-07:00

Yesterday the United Nations declared an official famine across two regions of southern Somalia - in the districts of Bakool and Lower Shabelle.

With UNICEF being the largest presence of any aid organisation in Somalia, it continues to work with local Somali administrations, communities, as well as local and international NGOs to deliver services to women and families throughout the country.

Nearly half of the Somali population - 3.7 million people - are now in crisis, of whom an estimated 2.8 million people are in the south. Consecutive droughts have affected the country in the last few years while the ongoing conflict has made it extremely difficult for agencies to operate and access communities in the south of the country.

Together with other charities and NGOs, the UNICEF Somalia team is working hard to bolster support to improve nutrition, access to safe water and health for the affected children. It's estimated that approximately £37 million ($60million) will be required to meet the needs.

Today it was reported that the UK has been leading the way with donations, but more support is still desperately needed. I have just donated, please do the same and help UNICEF's aid in East Africa.

For more information and donations, please visit www.unicef.org.uk/eastafrica.

Spark your Travelling Dream

2011-05-15T10:25:00.000-07:00

Whilst diving in Borneo earlier this year, I met Candelaria and Herman Zapp. An Argentinian couple, who after growing up together, decided to follow their dream and jumped in to their 1920s wooden wheeled car in search of adventure. After 11 years on the road, having visited over 30 countries (and still counting) and four children later, it seems nothing is going to dampen their wanderlust.

All their travelling tales were so fascinating; you really can't beat finding serendipity on the road. Here's to many more adventures.

For more information on the Zapp family and their trip, visit http://www.sparkyourdream.net/

Tufu dancing on Ilha de Moçambique

2011-05-07T14:58:00.000-07:00

The former capital of the country, Mozambique Island (or as known in Portuguese - Ilha de Mocambique) is so spectacular that it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991. It's an intriguing and enchanting anomaly.

Settled by the Portuguese and the Arabs from the 16th century as a trading port from where to export gold, ivory and slaves, the island nowadays has a very distinct character where its colonial influences are evident throughout. The fortifications on the island are a great example of an architecture in which local traditions and Portuguese and Arab influences are interwoven. Indeed, the tiny Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte is considered to be the oldest European building in the southern hemisphere.

Extraordinarily nothing has changed in the last 500 years. Whilst meandering through the sleepy cobbled streets, it feels like time has frozen. The narrow alleyways echo with the sounds of playing children and squawking chickens, whilst fishermen sit on the sand repairing their long, brightly coloured nets

Whilst visiting Ilha last year as a guest of the Mozambique High Commission, I had the pleasure of watching a group of ladies from the Estrela Vermella neighbourhood perform the traditional Tufu dance. Influenced by the Arabic heritage, this celebratory dance is now performed by six different groups on the island and is truly spectacular to watch.

Northern Mozambique – East Africa’s best kept secret

2010-07-04T02:35:00.000-07:00

Earlier this year I was invited by the High Commission of the Republic of Mozambique on a whistle stop tour of the country to learn how, following the end of the civil war in 1992, Mozambique is slowly but surely rising from the ashes.

With sustainable tourism being key to the growth of the country's economy as a whole, a series of projects are underway on both a national and local scale to help boost the tourism industry and ultimately benefit local communities.

Mozambique is a land of astounding diversity, with a distinct local style consisting of a blend of African, Arab and Portuguese influences, 2500 kilometres of long unspoilt coastline and 12 marine and land national parks.

To begin with, read here for my review in Style Bible of three stunning eco-lodges I visited in the northern region - Guludo, Ibo Island Lodge and Nuarro.

And here is my contribution to a destination feature on Mozambique that appeared in the Guardian's travel pages last weekend (Saturday, 19 September). A very proud moment for me indeed.

Sumatra - Indonesia's Wild West

2009-09-15T08:36:00.000-07:00

And here is my long awaited first full-length travel feature in the October issue of Real Travel.

Earlier this year I traveled to the northern region of Sumatra in Indonesia and it was a truly fantastic experience. Not only was I privileged in having some incredible close encounters with the critically endangered Sumatran orangutangs, but I also got to dive the underwater wonderland of Pulah Weh. These will be memories that I will cherish forever.

Of course none of this would have been possible without the help of Ben Stokes and Sarah Kemsley from Dive Safari Asia. So friendly and helpful, and without doubt the experts when it comes to adventure trips in the region.

Anyway, without further ado, I'll let the words speak for themselves... Here is my article on Indonesia's Wild West.

Enjoy!

So you want to be a travel writer?

2009-08-29T02:30:00.000-07:00

"So what do you want to be when you grow up?" Ah, the million dollar question. Hindsight is such a wonderful thing.

Chances are, what you envisaged yourself doing from when you were a child, is far from what your job now entails. For example, growing up, I really thought I would end up being a vet. If you were to mention this to my friends now, they would laugh in your face at the sheer thought of this.

I never thought in a million years, I would end up writing about travel. Let alone having anything published. But it wasn't until I returned from a trip in South America a few years back, that I thought I would try and put pen to paper. What was essentially a throw away excuse for me to relive my experiences in Peru, turned out to be a winning entry for a Lonely Planet writing competition that I entered at the end of 2007.

And then from there I guess it snowballed. I realised I actually quite liked writing, but knew I had a long way to go in terms of fine-tuning my style and adapting it to different audiences. Rather than it being "oh, this is what I did on my holidays".

Every day is still a learning curb and I am no way near in the same league as the many great travel writers who work so hard in this testing industry. And yes, 'travel writing' is not always the dream job everybody thinks it to be, even more so with publishing houses crumbling every day under the pressures of the economic melt down.

One particular person who I am indebted and forever grateful to, is the award-winning travel writer and Lonely Planet author, David Atkinson who writes an insightful blog Hit the North, and has been a fantastic mentor and a great inspiration to me. If perhaps, as a result of my constant badgering and nagging for advice. David, your efforts will be rewarded in heaven. I can assure you of this.

Over the course of the last two years, one publication that I worked with to varying degrees is the monthly UK based magazine Real Travel. I first started off with submitting selections of my travel images to their Reader's Gallery, and then from there I got the opportunity to review Tim Butcher's Blood River . And now, nearly two years on and several more book reviews and contributions later, I finally will have my first full-length feature published next month in their October issue.

The article will look at my time spent in Sumatra earlier this year. This is such a great achievement for me, even if I have to say so myself, and I am very excited.

So you can imagine how privileged I felt when Hfu Reisenhofer, Real Travel's newly appointed Chief Editor, asked me to contribute a few words towards an article he was writing about breaking into the industry, as I am a 'reader turned writer'...

If you would like to get a better insight into this and fancy reading my ''words of wisdom', then take a sneaky peak here: So you want to be a travel writer?

Hope you enjoy!

Five things you might not know about the Camorra

2009-08-09T11:36:00.000-07:00

In 2008 the award-winning film Gomorrah stormed the big screen, exposing the day-to-day realities of the Camorra – a branch of the Italian Mafia that operates in and around the cities of Naples and Caserta in the Italian region of Campania.

Directed by Matteo Garrone, the film was based on Roberto Saviano’s book which exposed the territory and business connections of this merciless organisation. Since the book’s publication, Saviano has received several death threats from “GodFather” style Camorra exponents and as such has now been forced to flee his native Italy for his own safety.

As the film’s first anniversary fast approaches, here are five facts about the Camorra that you might not know:

1. The Naples rubbish crisis, which saw its peak in January 2008, has proven how deep-rooted the Camorra’s influence is within local government. Making millions of euros from the transport and illegal dumping of waste, the Camorra has also been accused of sabotaging plans for new incinerators.

According to Italy’s National Research Council, the Camorra-controlled waste disposal has poisoned the environment in such a way that people living in some parts of the Campania region are three times more likely to get liver cancer than those living elsewhere in the region.

2. Majority of companies that pitch for public works contracts are financed by the Camorra, guaranteeing themselves a substantial income flow and the reputation of an enterprise that creates jobs for the area.

3. In order to launder monies, the Camorra builds exuberant shopping centres within the Campania region, despite there being a lack of consumer demand.

4. Members of the Camorra often have strategic relationships with political figures showing them their support with votes in return for help and favours.

5. For over twenty years the Government has tried to widen the motorway running between Salerno in Campania and Reggio Calabria, a town in the toe of the Italian heel, but given the Camorra’s monopoly over the area and the local construction companies, this has yet to happen.

Have you ever starred in an underwater adventure?

2009-06-19T05:34:00.000-07:00

Read a short tale about my first ever whale shark encounter in this month's edition of Real Travel.

Whilst completing my PADI Open Water last year in Sodwana Bay, South Africa, I was fortunate enough to encounter a whale shark on my first ever dive. Oh and a very cute leatherback turtle too, oh my.

(Please click on the image below to read the full article...)

Feature Article on the Similan Islands appearing soon in SPORT DIVER

2009-06-02T16:18:00.000-07:00

Well it is with great pride that I can confirm that my first ever published travel feature will be appearing in SPORT DIVER, the official magazine of the PADI Diving Association.

Following a fantastic week of diving in March earlier this year in the Similan and Surin Islands (an archipelago of nine small tropical islands, situated 100km northwest of Phuket in the tropical Andaman Sea), a three-paged article on my experience will feature in SPORT DIVER at the beginning of next year.

Oh and I forget to mention that my article will be accompanied by some pretty amazing underwater images too...

Tom Ozanne, a professional underwater photographer and videographer, teamed up with me for this feature, and well, the results speak for themselves!

If you fancy a sneaky peak, check out Tom's website - Are We Dreaming...

Enjoy!

Real Travel Magazine - May 2009: book review of Chris Harrison's "Head Over Heel"

2009-05-07T07:03:00.001-07:00

A book review for UK-based Real Travel magazine:

Chris Harrison’s account of his love affair with Italy and Daniela, a shapely signorina from Puglia, makes for an entertaining, well written and insightful novel that will resonate with anyone who has ever relocated to foreign shores.

On a chance trip to Dublin, Aussie Chris falls head over heels in love with Daniela. With no choice but to leave his life down-under and follow his beloved to the Southern heel of Italy, Chris is faced with all the trials and tribulations of moving to an Italian rural village.

The image of the foreigner as he appears in the eyes of his new-found colleagues and friends is made very clear and leads to many humorous moments. The ensuing madness leaves you in no doubt that this is Italy (corrupt government authorities, dangerous drivers, bizarre catholic traditions) and keeps you turning pages long into the night.

Lonely Planet's The Big Trip - Where Dreams Come True...

2009-02-24T05:50:00.001-08:00

As I mentioned a few months back, at the end of last year I won my second travel writing competition with Lonely Planet.

My winning article has now been published in Lonely Planet's "The Big Trip" guide book and is available in all STA Travel shops across Australia and New Zealand.

Living in the UK means that I will not have the chance to pick one up for myself. Luckily for me though, the guys at Lonely Planet in Australia posted me a few copies over and this is what it looks like - how very exciting!

Real Travel Magazine - February 2009: book review of Miriam Toews' "The Flying Troutmans"

2009-01-27T05:54:00.000-08:00

A book review for UK-based Real Travel magazine:

Returning home to Canada following the break-up of her relationship, Hattie takes it upon herself to care for her niece and nephew, after her sister Min is admitted to a psychiatric hospital. Within no time at all, acting on her instincts, Hattie decides to set off on a road trip to find the childrens’ estranged father, who they are lead to believe lives in California.

It soon becomes apparent that the traveling itself is far more important than the actual destination that represents an escape from the family lives they knew. With flashbacks to the past, the reader learns more about the family’s history and the reasons behind the childrens’ sometimes erratic behaviour.

The author mixes humor with bursts of raw emotion in a direct discourse style, and The Flying Troutmans is a captivating and engaging read from the outset, depicting a journey of self-discovery for all involved.

It's not such a Lonely Planet after all - Tales of an Indian Dream

2009-01-20T15:10:00.000-08:00

An article I wrote towards the end of 2008, detailing my ideal trip travelling across the southern region of India, beat over 300 entries to be one of the five winning articles to be published as part of Lonely Planet’s Big Trip book promotion, a one-stop guide to planning your first big trip overseas, which is on sale at the moment.

The The Big Trip guide will be full of information and tips to help plan fellow travellers’ trips and is available in all STA Travel shops in Australia and New Zealand.

This is what my local newspaper, the Nottingham Evening Post, had to say about my travel writing win.

And here is my winning entry:

As I arrive in Kerala, known by many as God’s Own Country, there will be no doubt in my mind that I am finally here in the land that I have always dreamt of visiting.

From Fort Cochin, I travel to the “Venice of the East” where I board my houseboat. As I cruise along the canals, flanked by village houses, everywhere I look there is a microcosm of daily life: colourful women washing their hair or the family’s clothes; laughing children swinging out into the canal on palm fronds; wizened old men fishing off the banks; cows being milked and goats on ropes being led back home. Gliding along, I enjoy the unique aquatic life that the backwaters have to offer, along with the otters and turtles that live in and around the water. The palm trees and leafy plants that grow alongside the backwaters provide a green hue to the surrounding landscape.Come dusk, the boat moors up by a canal bank where I watch the sun go down. I am lulled to sleep by the gentle flapping of the monsoon covers and the steady drumming of the rain on the reed roof.

From Kerala I take a boat to the Lakshadweep islands, a set of 36 coral islands that dazzle in their own vibrant colours. Renowned as India’s turquoise jewel and oblivious to the rest of the world, Kadamat Island is my haven for the weeks to come. I indulge my passion for diving among the unspoiled coral reefs. Exploring the underworld, I come face to face with resting turtles, lionfish, shoaling fish, groupers and tuna. Whilst nosing around a cleaning station, I discover a group of guitar sharks whizzing around on the top of a reef, showing off to each other. I stop and observe from a distance – they certainly will not notice me in my bright red wetsuit!

By night I laze around chatting to the local fishermen about coconuts and fish, discovering more about the daily life of an Indian sea nomad. The mysterious and white sandy beaches envelop me more than I could ever have imagined, despite there being a distinct lack of Facebook access.

Soon it is time for me to leave. As my boat departs the island, a man waves at me from the shore telling me I have forgotten one of my bags. Guess I’ll have to go back…

Brief Encounters at Beit Bridge

2008-12-09T09:15:00.000-08:00

Through the window, I watched the other drivers hunched over their steering wheels, enveloped in their own thoughts. As our truck etched towards the border inspection point, a passenger in one of the cars parked by us noticed my gaze and turned his head. I took a chance, smiled and waved at him. He scowled and drove off as the barrier lifted.

Welcome to Zimbabawe I thought.

A country that once upon a time was known as the breadbasket of Africa, with its hugely productive farms and buoyant economy, is today rife with hyperinflation, political corruption and crime.

Years of misrule from its leader Robert Mugabe, whose lust for power and fondness for bribery completely destroyed the country, has left Zimbabwe on its knees.

On March 29th this year the Movement for Democratic Change won the parliamentary elections but the party fell short of gaining an outright majority, which meant a presidential run off took place on June 27th. During this election period, the country has been rocked by violence, which has escalated day by day as the elections approached. Mugabe and his followers have used every means possible to suppress, torture and even kill Morgan Tsvangirai’s supporters.

In order to avoid any further bloodshed, Tsvangirai pulled out of the presidential race, leaving Mugabe as the only remaining candidate and making the whole affair even more of a farce.

Given this political disaster that was unfolding, arriving in Zimbabawe in the first week of April was possibly not the wisest of decisions, but the lure of the country proved too strong for us to resist.

Driving up from Jo’Burg, South Africa, we stopped at Musina for some last-minute food and drink supplies and made sure we had sufficient fuel for any unforeseen circumstances.

Crossing the border at Beit Bridge was most certainly an eye-opener. Unlike many other borders, which consist of no more than a cattle fence at times, the Zimbabwean border with South Africa is separated by the high-security fencing, but also the Limpopo River that runs alongside it. The police at this border post are extremely vigilant at the best of times, and this week they were even more so.

Everywhere we looked there were vehicles packed to the rafters with food, furniture and people, as well as many other citizens walking around wearing pro- Tsvangirai t-shirts (an attitude I admired, though thought rather brave given the recent back-lash from Mugabe’s followers).

As we queued up to get our passports stamped, a gentleman turned round and asked us what on earth we were doing crossing into Zim. Very good question. As we looked across at the other passport counter, the number of people trying to cross over into South Africa was considerably higher, that is without taking into account the many petrified souls who every day chance their life by illegally smuggling themselves across the border, attempts which often end in death.

Even the slightest hope of a successful escape drives many hundreds of Zimbabweans doing this every day. That and the hope that “Bob” (as he is ‘affectionately’ known) dies. According to our new found acquaintance, this is something most Zimbabweans have been wishing for the last 84 years. Here’s hoping.

After the lengthy rigmarole of passport checks and queuing for what seemed an eternity, we were then told we were standing in the wrong queue for British nationals. Not surprisingly we were then ordered to pay an extra fee for our temporary visas – oh the joys of border crossing! This is not to mention the last minute attempts by one of the supposed officials to try and con some more money out of us. Eventually we managed to crawl our way onto Zimbabwean soil.

With our destination of Simuwini rest camp in the Mabaluta Province of the GonaRe Zhou National Park in mind, we hit the bumpy road. Though the camp is only about 30kms from the border, it took an age to get there, given we were trying to dodge pot holes as well as the odd stray donkey. In the vicinity of our lodge we were greeted by herds of fleeting impalas and boks, and two rather nonchalant looking elephants as they meandered down to the river at watering time.

For our first game drive we woke up for sun rise, and though not usually a morning person, I was rewarded when we came across a hyena darting in and out of the bushes, and spotted vultures and crimson herons circling above our heads.

When it was suggested to test out the 4x4’s 'true capabilities' and head down into the dry river bed on the look out for some wildlife, we should have known that this ‘adventure’ would end in disaster. As predicted, both cars got stuck. Well schooled in the principles of risk management, we diligently collected as many large boulders as possible to build a solid surface under the tyres to act as a ramp out of the sandy swamp, and then we sat back and watched as the boys struggled to sort out their mess!

Given the ongoing political unrest, travelling into Zimbabawe, was arguably not the wisest of ideas. Fearing for our safety and with the added worry of running low on fuel, we were initially hesitant about making this trip, however it was one of the most exciting and exhilarating trips I have even ventured on. Being able to see the Big 5, amongst others, in the wild, away from the tourist trap that the Kruger sometimes can be, was an experience not too easy to forget.

Sat overlooking Nyala’s river bed for the last time, I was reading through the not so well-thumbed visitor book that Robert the Camp Manager had given us to sign. Given that they don’t receive many visitors, many pages were still blank, though one entry particularly stood out to me: “We will pass the word on to others that if they haven’t visited this place, then they do not know Zimbabawe yet”.

There are one too many treasures that this Park has to offer and it is a great shame that as time goes on, many people won’t get to experience this first hand because of the trail of violence and destruction that Mugabe continues to leave. But until Mugabe is removed from power, people will still miss out on visiting this wonderful country, although this loss does not compare to the tragedy felt by the people of Zimbabwe.

Book Review - "Once While Travelling: The Lonely Planet Story" by Tony and Maureen Wheeler

2008-10-29T04:39:00.001-07:00

Once While Travelling: The Lonely Planet Story, follows Tony and Maureen Wheeler’s progression from penniless travellers to the brain children behind the world’s largest independent travel publishing company.

An honest, heart-warming account, detailing the day-to-day tribulations of working long hours to achieve a much desired dream, coupled with the occasional financial and relationship glitch along the way. Whilst largely autobiographical, the book portrays an honest take on the day-to-day life of a travel writer on the road, alongside giving the reader a sound understanding of the corporate background, including the reasons why in 2007 they sold the majority stakehold to BBC Worldwide.

What transpires throughout this book is the Wheeler’s passion for travel and their determination to succeed, whilst maintaining humility and modesty in living the kind of life that most people dream of living.

Real Travel Magazine - November 2008: book review of 'Blood River' by Tim Butcher

2008-10-09T05:36:00.000-07:00

Book review for the monthly travel magazine Real Travel :

For as long as he can remember, the Congo has been Daily Telegraph correspondent, Tim Butcher’s zahir.
Eager to trace his mother’s footsteps through the deepest part of the Dark Continent and to re-live the same experiences as fellow Telegraph correspondent Henry Morton Stanley, in 2004 Tim embarked upon the journey of a life time crossing the Congo, the heart of tropical Africa.

Over the course of 44 days, he covered hundreds of kilometres over land and via any form of water vessels available, including a dug out canoe!

Every detail is described so vividly, from his encounters with the UN aid workers and locals along the way, to his fears and doubts as he discovers more of the history of a country that has suffered at the hands of outsiders. As Tim so simply states “the Congo represents the quintessence of the entire continent’s colonial experience”.
Interestingly he comments that this is one rare place that fails the coca-cola test – something quite rare, as even in some of the remotest parts I visited in Zimbabawe, I still managed to find Coca-cola.

Butcher’s impulse to follow his dream, against all advice, is something that I truly admired. The more I carried on reading, the more jealous I became, as I yearned to experience once again the excitement and inquisitiveness of challenging the un-known.

Blood River is an extraordinary and gripping account of a one man’s journey across a country plagued by years of atrocities. A must read for anyone wanting to read a first hand account of modern day Congo.

New writer for Travel Dive

2008-09-11T05:25:00.000-07:00

I have recently become an accredited writer for Travel Dive.

Travel Dive is a proud member of the 9Rules Network and publisher of high quality diving articles to a world audience.

Here is a link to my profile and to my first contributed article for the site - "Diving in the Rainbow Nation"; no doubt there will be more to come in the upcoming months!

Lonely Planet - Travel Writing Competition Win

2008-08-20T04:55:00.000-07:00

At the end of 2007, I submitted an article via Lonely Planet’s Facebook group, recounting the tales of my travels in Peru. With in excess of 500 applicants, only five lucky writers got the opportunity to be published and I was one of them! The winners’ stories have been included in the free Lonely Planet guide, “Monster Around the World Trips”, which is full of information and tips to help plan trips and is available in all STA shops across the UK as well as online.

“The opportunity ran on our Lonely Planet Facebook page as a chance for wannabe writers to sink their pens into the travel world” said Aaron Lamb, Editor at Lonely Planet Publications “The ‘Your name in print’ opportunity was run to inspire travellers to see the world with Lonely Planet and STA travel. We received over 500 entries and Daniela’s piece was a stand out entry. Lonely Planet prides itself on telling it like it is and Daniela was able to get to the heart of her story and convey an epic adventure in a humorous and succinct manner that not only had us laughing but drew us into her world and her experience.”

Diving in the Rainbow Nation

2008-05-01T04:35:00.000-07:00

“Now remember there is no need to panic. Just remember to keep breathing and what ever you do, stay close to your buddy. Now let’s go down and enjoy every minute of it!” These were the last words of wisdom Gabby shared with us before we went down on our first dive in the Indian Ocean. We were told this was going to be a life-changing experience, one beyond our wildest expectations, but no matter how many books I read and photos I trawled through, nothing could have quite prepared me for life deep-down in the Ocean.

It was a chance conversation with my cousin Gabby that led me to diving. In fact it took no time or effort what so ever for her to convince me that I would have a holiday to remember. All I needed to do was raise the money for the trip, but where there’s a will there’s a way, and I wasn’t going to let that stop me!

South Africa, is known as the adventure capital of the world, with its breath-taking landscapes that rule the region, its natural beauty and wildlife that will leave you awe-struck, the invigorating mountain and ocean air, but above all South Africa is home to some of the friendliest people you will ever come across.

After 24 hours of travel we finally arrived in Johannesburg extremely excited. Coming from an Italian family means that nothing is done by halves and our welcome party certainly was testament to this! We were greeted with a typical South African braaii (BBQ), much wine and a whole bunch of people eager to meet the infamous poms! This was to set the bar for the rest of our stay. We were warned that South Africans knew how to party, but nothing could have prepared us for the next three weeks…

Gabby, along with her partner Simon, are both qualified PADI scuba diver instructors running their diving school, Sandton Scuba, a PADI 5 Star Instructor Development Centre in the northern suburbs of Jo’burg. Sandton Scuba is much more than a diving school and shop; it is a way of life bringing together an astonishing mixture people of all ages and backgrounds. When you think of diving centres, you immediately think of beach huts scattered along the coast, and in many cases you would be right; however more and more diving centres are opening inland, offering competitive packages to divers of all levels wanting to enjoy the underworld whilst not living by the sea.

Within days of our arrival and as soon as the jet lag had subsided, we were chucked in the pool to begin our PADI Open Water course. What with the drinking and the altitude (Jo’burg lies at 1,753 metres), the swimming tests and theory lectures proved to be somewhat testing to begin with, but we soon got into the swing of things and were happily learning how to piece together our scuba equipment without tripping over our cylinders!

However my relationship with wetsuits was one that I did not relish for the duration of the trip. Trying to get into a wetsuit in 28 degrees of heat is something I wouldn’t wish on my worst enemy! Suffice to say that the daily procedure became a source of entertainment for all as I swiftly lost all dignity and grace, as I struggled with this particular item of clothing.

We were warned that every time we made a mistake or didn’t pay attention, we would be forced to drink tequilas as penitence (obviously once out of the water). From the first time I put my wetsuit on back to front, to finding it funny to knock the regulator out of the girls’ mouths to swimming off from the group following a strange-looking fish; I can safely say I forged a strong friendship with Jose Cuervo.

After much training in the pool, getting used to breathing under water, discovering the beauty of making bubbles and learning the basic scuba skills, we were ready for the next big step, our first open water dives in the Indian Ocean at Sodwana Bay (meaning “little one on it’s own” in Zulu).

So a week after landing in South Africa, all in convoy we start our journey towards Sodwana Bay in order to qualify as Open Water scuba divers. From Jo’burg it takes around 7 hours to drive there, so to break-up the journey we decided to spend an evening in Pongola at the Country Lodge.

Pongola’s location is ideal, positioned on the main route between Swaziland and KwaZulu-Natal, home to the indigenous Zulu and Tonga communities. It is situated in the valley of the majestic Lebombo Mountains and is an area rich in Anglo, Zulu and Boer history. One of the jewels of the Zulu Kingdom, the area boasts the first ever game reserve in Africa, proclaimed by President Paul Kruger in 1894.

The next morning, with a slightly hazy head, but much excitement, we hit the road for the last couple of hours to reach Sodwana. After a bumpy ride along some of the richest red soiled tracks I have ever seen, we arrived at Sodwana Bay Lodge, kicking up a trail of dust.

Sodwana Bay lies hidden amongst the coastal dunes at the Northern Edge of the St Lucia Wetland Park on the infamous Elephant coast line. The dive sites of Sodwana Bay represent the most southerly hard coral reef systems in the world; an underwater paradise less affected by global warming than reefs further north. Located at the centre of a vast marine reserve, Sodwana Bay is widely recognised as the scuba diving Mecca of South Africa.

The reef systems of Sodwana play host to a myriad of tropical fish, with over 1,200 species of fish in addition to a wide variety of marine life.

There are humpback whales, ragged tooth sharks (also known by the locals as ‘raggies’), whale sharks, tiger sharks, manta rays and giant morays.

As our launch boat left the shore for our first dive in the open water, we clung on for dear life to the sides, as our skipper Prince, fancied himself as the Renegade of the Seas, literally riding the waves with the boat at a 90˚ angle. After what seemed a life time, we arrived at our first dive site, Anton’s Reef.

We started to get our scuba gear ready, turning on the air to our cylinders, ‘accidentally’ hitting each other with the fins, trying to untangle our bikini straps from our very uncomfortable wetsuits, the usual rigmarole for any diver, we presumed. Then out of the blue we were told to ditch the gear and get straight into the water with our masks and snorkels. We obeyed.

If you have been there you know, if you haven’t, then it is difficult to describe the feeling of sharing the water with a whale shark, the biggest fish in the sea. More like a whale than a shark, these fish are right at the top of most divers ‘to see’ lists and contrary to popular pre-conceptions, they are not intimidating in the slightest and are more like gentle giants.

So you can imagine how honoured we felt when jumping into the water on our first ever ocean dive, to be lucky enough to experience the presence of the king of the mystical sea world! Like magic as soon as we entered the water a whale shark was leisurely swimming a couple of metres below us. It was quite an experience to see such an animal covered in a beautiful pattern of whiter spots and lines. I paused, mesmerized. It took a moment to process the sight of an eight metre long whale shark in all its spotted glory, lingering just a few kicks away.

The experience took my breath away. Luckily there were eight tanks of oxygen ready for such moments. Then I realised they were floating 20 meters away inside a slippery dinghy, so I had to make do with the occasional breath of half sea water half air coming through my snorkel, which seemed to be acting as more of a funnel for the increasingly rough sea than as an air supply!

We were to find out later that there are people who have dived for years who are yet to come across a whale shark – which made the experience all that more special, as we realised how truly privileged, yet spoilt we had been.

Over the course of the following few days we continued to dive and my eyes were opened up to a whole new world. After completing our skills on each dive, we were free to go exploring the multitude of reefs that lay on the ocean bed. It was like being in a scene from Finding Nemo, except better because we were featuring in it! Hovering over reefs spotting nudibranchs (colourful sea slugs), playing hide and seek with a very cheeky honeycomb eel as he darted in and out of the dens in the reef, playing with the tropical ‘Nemos’ (clown fish – for the geeks), whilst trying not to get my fingers bitten by them as they swam in and out of the anemones. Swimming off from the group, much to Gabby’s dismay, I followed emperor angel fish, clown trigger fish and Moorish idols to name but a few. Swimming through a school of fish and then having one of them come up to your mask and stare at you is quite something.

It was on our last dive before qualifying, with not long to go before surfacing, that we came across the most gorgeous leatherback turtle swimming proudly over the reefs. We were lucky enough to get some great photo shots.

On my final ascent just before I hopped back on to the boat a white-tip shark swam just under my feet. That’s the great thing about the ocean; you always have to expect the unexpected. Within minutes I was taking off my fins, while my fellow divers laughed hysterically at me as I managed to expose more than desired whilst battling to take-off the wetsuit. Two juxtaposing worlds.

So that was it – we were now fully qualified Open Water divers and completely over moon! Who would have thought that ten days before I was staring at Gabby completely perplexed as she handed me a BCD (Buoyancy Control Device) jacket and told me to get in the pool!

To celebrate we decided to head out to Lake Sibaya, a crystal beauty hidden just north of Sodwana. We packed the car full of celebratory beverages and with a fantastic collection of 80s ballads and classic ‘rock’ tunes, we drove off into the sunset to go and spot some more wildlife.

Lake Sibaya is the largest natural fresh water lake in South Africa with an area of 60 to 70 km2 and the only source of permanent water for birds and mammals in the region. It also contains the second largest population of hippopotamus and crocodile in KwaZulu-Natal. Crocodiles tend to sunbathe during the midday heat, so we too late for them, but as the sun was setting we spotted two hippos peaking their heads over the water. Such magnificent and grand creatures.

Returning back to Jo’burg felt quite surreal after having had five amazing, breath-taking days. Now we had to get ready for our trip up to the North in the Kruger Park and Gona Re-Zhou National Park in Zimbabwe.

Scuba diving offers utterly unique experiences amongst the serenity and sublime tranquillity of the underwater world. As you go under, everything turns calm and peaceful. All is forgotten but the steadiness of your breathing and exploring the under-world and its inhabitants.

Diving has opened my eyes to a whole new world that I yearn to know more about. There is something addictive about being so deep under water. It leaves you completely mesmerized, wanting to re-live the same experience time and time again.

My next challenge will be bracing the cold waters of the UK in a dry suit!

The Peruvian Gringo Trail

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Peru, the ancient kingdom of the Inka civilisation and a mystical land full of lost cities.

Engulfed by the Andes, the Peruvian gringo trail offers a range of breath taking experiences and adventures to embark upon - not for the faint hearted mind! From sand dune buggying in the desert of Huacchachina, buzzing over the infamous Nazca lines in a light aircraft to discover over 800 eerie unexplained markings, condor spotting whilst trying not to fall off the edges of the Colca Canyon, boat trips across Lake Titicaca and visiting the Uros Islands – floating islands made of reefs, very easy to fall through if not careful!! And of course the legendary Inka Trail leading to the magical lost city of Macchiu Picchiu - the Mecca for any avid traveller!!

The majority of back packers’ first introduction to Peru is Lima, a crowded and poverty stricken capital city along the coast. From there regardless of what route you choose to follow, transport for travellers is pretty reliable, though be prepared for some long bumpy rides along the way!!

At some point your travels will lead you to Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inka civilisation and the main jump off point before heading off for the Inka Trail. Cusco stands proud at a staggering 3,300 metres above sea level, so it’s a perfect place as any to begin acclimatising yourself in preparation for the 4 day trek that will lie ahead of you! The locals will try and ply you with a local concoction known as coco tea to help you cope with the altitude but it doesn’t taste much like PG Tips! Here you can also stock up on all last minute goodies, such as energy bars and thermals. Although these are not the most flattering of garments, you will be glad of them once the sun sets and you are huddled in a tent in the depths of the Andes!
Cusco is an enchanting city with so many narrow streets of red-roofed houses to get lost wandering around and so many hidden tales to discover.

There are cuisines to suit all tastes, but if you are feeling adventurous you should definitely try the local delicacy cuy (guinea pig) or the lomo saltado, a delicious beef and tomato dish. If on the other hand you are on a tight budget you should try out the many empanadas that can be found sold on most street corners, pasty style snacks that come with both meat and veggie fillings and should not cost more than 1 or 2 Peruvian soles (about 40 pence).
As in most of Peru people are warm and friendly and often speak English, although knowing some Spanish does go a long way and as I found out from personal experience can help you out of some tricky situations!

The trekking season runs from April until October when the weather is drier and visibility good, with July and August the busiest.

The easiest way to complete the walk is to book the trek from a reputable travel company in the UK and to avoid disappointment be prepared to book well in advance as a combination of high demand and strict regulation of the trail by the Peruvian authorities means that places on the trail get booked up months in advance.

The trail in itself is just less than 40 kilometres over 4 days. Now although this doesn’t seem that arduous, the sheer altitude can lead at times to sickness and lack of air. The best way to combat this is to walk at your own pace and follow local custom and chew coca leaves, which are very much of the legal kind!

The main stars of the trail are the porters. Not only do they carry all your gear but even put up your tents and prepare breakfast, lunch and a three-course dinner. And then they wake you up each morning with a cup of coca tea! Most porters walk the trail up to four times a month and not once do you hear them complain, unlike the rest of us! What with being so used to the trek, the often reached camp in plenty of time before the group.

The second day is notorious for its difficulty as it’s just over 12 kilometres of solid uphill walking to reach the highest point, Dead Woman’s Pass at 4,200 metres. Now although there were no dead women when we arrived there, there were certainly lots of semi collapsed corpses lying in agony at the top! In fact one of my highlights of the trek was reaching the top of the Dead Woman’s Pass to cheers and applause from the rest of my friends and as well as obviously reaching Machu Picchu!

Any hardship was worth it for the prize at the end of the trail! There was a palpable sense of excitement as the fourth day dawned and we knew we didn’t have long to go. So a 3.30 am start and two more hours of trekking and we arrived. To our disappointment it had been raining and the much anticipated postcard view was out of sight, but then after not long the clouds lifted and before my eyes was the most awe inspiring sight I had ever seen in my life!! It really made you stand back and say “wow” and appreciate all those days of trekking!

You definitely need to get there early before the bus loads of day trippers arrive and spend a good day exploring the ruins, losing yourself among temples, steps, terraces, broad squares and rows of houses, all built by stone from the local quarries.

Once you and your tired out body return back to Cusco, be sure to treat yourself to a well deserved shower, though hot water can be a rarity at times, so be prepared to master the art quick body washes!! Dotted around the city are massage parlours offering all kinds of pampering packages for worn out trekkers.
If like me you feel that your adventurous efforts should be rewarded, head down to Paddys, the highest irish pub in the world and then Mama Afrikas, both popular hotspots amongst travellers. Sample the local beverages pisco sours and the national beer Cusqueña. A word of warning though, at such a high altitude alcoholic drinks tend to have more of a effect on you than normal, so best not to over do it if you have to find your way back to the hostel!

If you have a keen sense of adventure and fancy a trip of a lifetime, conquering the Inka Trail is definitely a must!